SWEET PEAS sixth page.
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fill in each side of the four sides of the wigwam with two canes, not one, producing a four-sided structure containing twelve canes. Space the twelve canes a little more than 30cm from each other.
PLANTING OUT AND SOWING. The head gardener follows a meticulously prescribed programme when readying his cane rigs (which are in the Victorian style: long and two-sided; see the photograph referred to earlier) to bear their cargoes of upward-climbing vines. To follow his example
in the late afternoon of the first day of the April moon's first quarter, transfer the potted sweet-pea plantlets from the cold frame to an earth surface that is adjacent to the Year One Area. Use one of the neighbouring Year Areas, which are still in outline form (see Diagram 1, page 14)
TIP -- "Judge when the soil is warm enough for planting out by waiting for the first weeds to appear," advises head gardener Harris. "These old soldiers do not stir from barracks until the ambient temperatures tell them that above ground is no longer out of bounds."
add water to each pot until it threatens to overflow the pot's brim. Do so with all gentleness. Use a can with the finest and smallest of roses. As far as possible, direct the water onto the compost, not onto the plants. Ensure that overflowing water drains wholly onto the earth surface, not also onto hard standing.[Considerations: 1 -- thoroughly moistened compost playing host to plantlets' root systems slides effortlessly and without breakage from the pot containing it. This makes for a successful transplantation from pot to garden soil; 2 -- potentially, water drained onto a hard surface in the garden, whether deliberately or accidentally, creates habitat for diseases and/or pests. Drained onto and absorbed by earth, it does not; 3 -- do not immerse the pots in water for a period of time in order to moisture their compost content. By this means, pots as small as these are likely to absorb too much moisture. Over-moistened compost is likely to break apart as it is removed from its pot at the transplantation stage, causing disturbed and, hence, disadvantaged roots to be inserted into the soil]
water the surface of the sweet-pea-bed-to-be. Do so immediately after watering the potted plantlets. Do so thoroughly. Use a large can fitted with a coarse head[Considerations: 1 -- "'thoroughly'," warns R J Harris, "means be sure that the bed is still workable after applying the water. Do not take the watering to the point at which you find yourself looking down at a bog garden. Wet but workable are the key words"; 2 -- all plantlets or plants must be thoroughly watered at least two hours prior to being stationed in their permanent positions. This is to give the roots the greatest opportunity to take in moisture. "You never," says the head gardener, "remove a plant from a dry pot or other container and then insert it into dry ground. Not, that is, if you want to give it every opportunity to survive the transplantation and then to flourish]
leave plantlets and bed untouched for at least two hours. [Consideration: the afternoon is chosen for this procedure to enable the soil to retain the applied moisture for as long as possible before evaporation diminishes it. The comparative warmth of the day has almost ended. The coolness of the night lies ahead, during which little or no evaporation takes place. The reverse is the position when the water is applied at the beginning of the day]
at the end of the day, still on the first day of the April moon's first quarter, transfer the now thoroughly moistened potted plantlets to the now thoroughly moistened sweet-pea section of the Year One Area's first year, deep-trench bed. Do so at the end of the day. For a transplantation instruction, see RUNNER & CLIMBING FRENCH BEANS: planting out and sowing in R J Harris's Moon Gardening
insert a sweet-pea seed into the soil alongside each transplanted set of four plantlets. Place it into the soil at a depth that is no more than twice the seed's thickness. Site the added seed at the edge of the root ball, as close as possible to the adjacent cane. Close the soil over the seed.[Consideration: the reward, in the event of successful germination and the development of the resultant plantlet to maturity, is a sweet-pea season that is doubled in length and a wigwam support that doubles its productivity]
TIP -- "If the soil sticks to your boots as you move around on it, take it as a warning that it is not fit to work on and, for that reason, you will do more harm than good," advises the Cornish head gardener. "Leave it alone until drier conditions return. If it comes to sheer desperation, and prolonged rain threatens to spoil what is waiting to be put in the ground, plant to the best of your ability standing on boards and thus making no indentations in, or serious compactions of, the soil."
protect each inserted set of sweet-pea plantlets with fleece if frost threatens. Tuck the fleece around the plantlets with care to avoid damage to their stems. Place weights on the fleece's edges -- or pin it down -- to hold it in situ in windy conditions
remove the fleece the moment the day-time weather improves. Continue to have it in readiness against the onset of night-time frost
mark the wigwam with a durable label stating what has been planted/sown and when. Use a pen charged with waterproof ink
position an anti-slug jar close to each inserted set of plantlets. Do so the moment the plantlets are in the ground. Manage the jars daily. Alternatively, use the R J Harris non-slug-pellet methods, which are referred to above and at SLUGS
wash the empty pots in a solution of Jeyes Fluid. Rinse them thoroughly, dry them, and return them to store for re-use
note that, at this stage of the garden-conversion project, broad beans are beginning to flourish in the adjacent broad-bean section of the single-dug bed in the Year One Area. Take care not to damage these plants as the deep-trench bed is worked upon, for they are close to hand. See BROAD BEANS in R J Harris's Moon Gardening.
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SWEET PEAS sixth page.
